We have been really lucky to meet a lovely lady who is totally crazy about animals and would do anything to save them. She recued two kangaroos when they were still young. Nowadays they stay go for a few days inland and comeback to say hello. A highlight.
Après avoir visité le sud-ouest de l'Australie, nous sommes enfin arrivés à Perth. Nous sommes actuellement chez Robert et Sylvia, un couple de polonais rencontrés à Margaret River. Ils ont plusieurs chambres de libres, et en forçant un peu, on a réussi à obtenir qu'ils nous en louent une pour pas trop cher.
On quitte Margaret River en se donnant RDV sur Perth, cinq jours plus tard le temps qu'ils finissent leurs vacances.
Mais avant tout ça, dans le sud de l’état, nous sommes allés faire un tour à Valley of the giants.
A cet endroit se trouvent les arbres les plus grands d'Australie, certains atteignent 60m. Et l'attraction touristique est une promenade dans les arbres, une passerelle de 600m de long atteignant 40m de haut au maximum permet de titiller la cime des arbres de plus près.
Ensuite direction Diamond Tree, un arbre de 40m sur lequel des centaines de gros clous ont été plantés afin de créer un chemin circulaire autour du tronc. D'en bas on se dit que ça a l'air facile mais en commençant l'ascension, on sent les jambes nous lâcher et les bras trembler. En avançant sur une tige de 5cm de diamètre on a peu l'impression de marcher dans le vide. Le corps ayant été plus fort que l'envie de monter, il nous a fallu redescendre.
Après cet échec gravé à jamais dans nos esprits, nous arrivons à Augusta, l'extrême sud-ouest de l'Australie. Un phare marque l'endroit où l'océan indien et austral se rencontrent. On décide d'entamer notre ascension vers le nord en direction de Perth et nous nous arrêtons à Margaret River connue pour ses vignes, sa chocolaterie et ses fromageries. C'est donc là que nous rencontrons le couple de polonais. La côte et la route dans les bois la longeant sont magnifiques à cet endroit.
Ensuite Busselton, encore plus au nord. C'est un peu la station balnéaire de Perth avec une jetée avançant de 2km dans la mer. Gros spot de pêcheurs mais aussi pour les fans de dauphins. On a eu la chance d'en voir un nager pendant quelques mn. On a aussi eu le droit à une raie qui nageait en rond au bord de l'eau. On voulait plonger mais $175 (110€) pour 2 plongées sur une épave, c'est un peu exagéré.
Le côté très touristique et sans beaucoup de vie comme souvent en Australie, nous a donné envie de retourner dans le bush. Il faut le préciser, ce pays est magnifique, mais ce n'est pas Ibiza, villes souvent trop jeunes pour présenter un réel intérêt, fermeture à 17h des magasins et à 21h la plupart des gens sont couchés.
Et effectivement en retournant dans le bush on a pris une des meilleures décisions du voyage. A 200 km de Perth, Donnybrook, capitale de la pomme et de la poire et donc bon endroit pour se faire embaucher pendant les vendanges, on atterrit chez Tess et Clive qui tiennent un Bed & Breakfast. Tess adore les animaux, son mari est beaucoup moins passionné, c'est un bon gars de la campagne qui élève des bœufs. A y repenser l'association est assez étrange, un éleveur qui envoie ses bêtes à l’abattoir avec une militante SPA. En tous cas, Tess est toujours prête à récupérer n'importe quel boiteux. Deux ans auparavant, elle a sauvé deux kangourous qui aujourd'hui, toujours libres, passent régulièrement lui dire bonjour. Il est, d'habitude, difficile d'approcher des kangourous, mais ceux-là se laissent caresser, font des siestes sur le dos, s'agrippent pour jouer et entament des matches de boxe.
Au 1er round, j'ai quelques balafres sur les bras, j'ai donc profité de la pause pour enfiler mon sweat avant le 2e round.
La partie était tout de suite plus équilibrée. Crochet du droit, sur la mâchoire gauche du kangourou, appui sur les pattes arrière et sur la queue pour m'asséner un coup sur le sommet du crâne.
Il a été très difficile de nous départager bien que le kangourou a souvent triché en utilisant les deux chicots de devant qu'il lui reste après son accident. Les photos en témoignent (voir la note "Amazing experience").
Il nous faut aussi parler de Gnomesville, là où deux routes perdues se sont retrouvées quelques centaines de nains de
jardin ont élu domicile. Certains sont venus de très loin pour déposer leur gnome. L'endroit a suscité un réel intérêt national. Mais où est Jean-Pierre Pernaud?
A partir de Donnybrook, on peut voir les paysages changer radicalement. Au sud, entre Albany et Augusta, des milliers d'arbres, des lacs un climat assez humide et à partir de Donnybrook, l'air devient très sec, il fait 36° et les champs de blés fauchés ressemblent aux tableaux de Van Gogh.
En arrivant à York, 100 km est de Perth, on suffoque et on se demande si on pourra supporter ce climat pendant 3 mois.
York est une vieille ville dont l'origine est directement liée à la ruée vers l'or de la fin du 19e. Donc pas mal de bâtiments intéressants.
A l'office de tourisme, on nous propose, une auberge de jeunesse ou un pub dans une ville fantôme qui a des chambres au 1er. On choisit petit 2.
9 habitants dans la ville.
Il faut préciser que dans le WA, il est très difficile de trouver du personnel. Surtout dans un endroit pareil. Ils embauchent même des routards qui ne parlent pas anglais. Seul pré-requis, savoir servir une bière. Donc pas étonnant que la serveuse du pub soit une allemande qui attend désespérément que des clients se pointent. Heureusement, pour elle, c'est le seul bar à des km à la ronde. Et très rapidement Bob, un habitué arrive. On apprend qu'il y a quelques dizaines d'années, la population de Greenhills (ça devrait s'appeler yellowhills...) atteignait 3000 personnes mais ils sont tous partis quand le train n'a plus fait de stop chez eux.
Enfin l'allemande nous apprend que le bar ferme après le départ du dernier client, en général 20h30, et que nous serons les seuls locataires du pub, le gérant étant en ville. Assez étrange mais un peu angoissant quand Bob se met à nous raconter les expériences passées de quelques anciens clients.
Un couple aurait retrouvé toutes les fenêtres et portes ouvertes peu de temps après les avoir fermées et un client aurait vu une femme assise sur sont lit. Il semblerait que 3 fantômes hantent l'endroit. Un chinois tué et deux femmes dont une poussée dans les escaliers. Pour donner plus de poids à l'histoire l'allemande nous montre une photo du pub où on peut voir une ombre étrange sur une des fenêtres.
21h, tous les clients et l'allemande sont partis. On repense à leurs histoires en se disant que ce ne sont que des conneries mais dans une vieille maison où le sol en bois craque facilement, la pression monte un peu. Même sans croire aux histoires de fantôme l'endroit met vraiment mal à l'aise. Alors si un jour vous êtes dans le même genre d'endroit, la recette c'est de ne pas écouter les voix, bouchons d'oreille ou écouteurs à fond sont les bienvenus et évitez de regarder les miroirs. Ces cons ils en avaient mis partout, j'ai trouvé ça très vicieux. Alors la grande question : Dormir la lumière allumée ou pas ? Nous on préfère regarder les choses en face et forcément il fallait laisser la lumière pour savoir à qui on avait à faire. Bon finalement personne ne nous a rendu visite, on a dû être trop forts. Yes.
Enfin direction Perth. Depuis le temps et 7000km on arrive enfin à destination. On traverse le centre, la City, c'est clairement plus petit que Sydney ou Melbourne mais c'est assez aéré. Ayant beaucoup entendu parler de Fremantle, on décide d'aller y faire un tour et là personnellement j'ai adoré. C'est vraiment la vieille ville avec un vieux marché, plein de terrasses de cafés et des restos enfin de la vie quoi, ce qu'il manque souvent aux villes australiennes. On se demande si on ne devrait pas prendre un appart ici mais on veut d'abord savoir à quoi ressemble la maison de Robert et Sylvia. On se dirige vers le nord sur 40km et on leur donne RDV devant un centre commercial. On a un peu peur quand on voit que ce ne sont que des maisons à perte de vue sans arbre et un centre commercial gigantesque. On se croirait dans Desperate Housewives. Alors là pour ce qui est du manque de vie, il n'y a pas pire. Les gens se déplacent toujours en voiture, on ne voit donc jamais marcher dans la rue. Beaucoup de magasins sont drive-in, même les Liquor shops qui vous apportent les bières dans la voiture et un autre qui fait le café. Honnêtement je trouvais qu'il y avait plus de vie à Greenhills, la ville fantôme.
Robert et Sylvia nous retrouvent et nous invitent à les suivre mais je suis incapable de redémarrer. La batterie est morte. Etrange, après tout ce trajet c'est à Perth que la voiture nous lâche. Je n'ose pas imaginer la galère si c'était arrivé dans le désert. Heureusement Robert bidouille un peu en mécanique parce que moi ouallou. En poussant ça l'a fait jusqu'à chez eux.
Maintenant deux missions, réparer la voiture et trouver du boulot.
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So after exploring the south-west of Australia we finally made it to Perth. We are staying with Robert and Sylvia from Poland, 40 km north of the city in Clarkson. We met them in Margaret River and they offered to rent one of their rooms for a good price. It actually makes things easier, we don't like arriving in a big city with the car and all our stuff.
But before that we went to the Valley of the Giants. It is a 600m long walk high in the trees. These are the highest trees of Australia, up to 60m. The walkway reaches 40m at its highest point. Then we checked Diamond Tree. It looks really easy from the ground but can be quite scary when you start your way to the top. A round path has been made by nails sticked into the tree, no stair. Your brains tell you it is Ok, but your arms and your legs don't respond. Unless you never feel vertigo.So unfortunately we didn't make it to the top.
The next stop was Augusta which is the south-west point of Australia. The light tower there shows exactly where the Indian and SOuth ocean meet.It is actually quite hard to tell but it is a nice place to visit.
Then we went a bit north to Margaret River which is famous for its wineries, cheese and chocolate farms.The beaches there on the south-west coast are beautiful and also worth a drive, the water is still cold though.
Then we visited Busselton where you can walk on the 2km long jetty. It is a nice walk and a really popular spot among the fishermen. It is also a famous spot for watching dolphins. If you are lucky you can even swim with them. We didn't try but managed to see one while walking on the beach. A sting-ray was later swimming next to the shore for 20mn.
And we were actually thinking about doing some wreck diving but it is a bit too pricy. $175 for 2 dives, it was $200 in Albany.
After Busselton we had enough of the touristic places and decided to go more inland so We went to Donnybrook, close to Bunbury and about 200km south of Perth. We stayed at Tess and Clive's place who manage a B&B. We had there one of our best experience ever. Tess loves animals and saved two young kangaroos, two joeys 18 months ago. They live free but now seem to enjoy this place. It was so great be so close to them. The male was playing with me but obviously I won the fight.
Donnybrook is the fruit capital of WA thus a good spot if you are looking for some fruit-picking job. But it also holds an interesting place, Gnomesville. Hundreds small puppets have been set there. They are just all over the place and people come from far away to leave their gnomes.
The next day we drove towards the north to York, 100km east of Perth. The landscape there changes considerably. From Esperance to Augusta it is green with high trees and the weather is really humid.From Donnybrook to York it was dry, and everything looked yellow. No grass, but just the hay everywhere. It is beautiful though. Sometimes it looks like a Van Gogh painting. So we visited York a lovely city with old buildings, some of them are 150 years old but it was 36° so hard to do something else than looking for shade or air-con. At the tourist office we could choose to stay overnight at the back-packers or in a pub 20 km further but in a ghost town. Obviously we picked-up the second place. An experience in an ghost town like you could imagine in a western film can't be refused. It was actually not like
in a western but you could almost hear Enio Morricone. Nine people are living there and with the two of us the population increased with more than 20%. Luckily it is the only pub in miles and for all the fellows around is the only place to have a drink. We had a nice discussion with Bob who is there every day and told us that Greenhills (why green ???) used to be really active with 3000 people living there. They all left when the train took an other route.
So the funny thing about the pub is that we could pick up any room and that we would be the only people in there after the last customer would leave the place. It was a bit weird and they even made it worst after telling all the ghost stories. It seems that three ghosts are living there. Two wives and a chinese man who were killed many years ago. One was pushed from the stairs, the chinese man was killed in the fields and I don't know about the third one.
Apparently a guest saw a woman on his bed and a couple found all the doors opened after locking them. To make it more realistic they showed a photo of the building where you can see a ghostface on the window.Honestly, you can think it is bullshit but when you are there at night just the two of you thinking about all this you don't feel really confortable. So we have to admit, we left the lights on all night.
The next day, dawn rescued us, we packed our stuff and headed towards Perth. A last effort for the car after 7000km since Sydney. We drove through the city and went to Fremantle which is a great place. Many old buildings, a nice market like Covent Garden in London, and many bars and restaurants. We actually decided to rent a place there. We will get the keys on Wednesday but we already know that the two last months in Australia will be great.We just hope it won't take too long before we find a job.
Just about the car. It stopped 200m before we reached Robert and Sylvia's place. That's really odd, it gave up just at the end. Luckily it didn't happen in the desert, in the Nullarbor Plain.
So we left Ceduna and started our journey to the nothing. One thing if you decide to take on this road, don’t forget to wave your hand at the other cars. That is the custom we only realised at the end.
Indeed the Nullarbor plain does not have many trees. It is a long, straight and boring road. We were quite concerned about the car but nothing happened that we had to worry about.
Between Ceduna, SA and Norseman, WA there are 1200 km and only a few roadhouses which only provide a few rooms and a gas station. Gas can be incredibly expensive. Up to $1.82 for unleaded. (usually 1.34)
When we crossed the border from SA to WA, we had to go through the customs which I have never seen before between two other states in Australia. They register your name and car and then make you blow. They also make sure you don’t have any fruit or veggies. $2500 fine if you have undeclared goods.
Madura was our first stop in WA and honestly it wasn’t a really good induction. The managers are so unfriendly but who cares? The customer service can be shit since the next place is usually 100km further away.
We now have 1 ¼ hr difference time with Sydney. 30mn from Victoria to SA and 45mn from SA to WA, isn’t that weird? There will be another 45mn in Perth which will make it 2h with Sydney and Melbourne.
The next day we drove on the 90 miles road which is the longest in Australia and maybe in the world. We saw so many dead kangaroos, a few every 100m. I have seen other bad roads before but this one was terrible. Some of them just got hit by a car but other dead bodies where there since at least a week or 10 days. It is a really sad vision but the only ones who really enjoy it are the crows. You can see hundreds who fill their stomach with dead kangaroos. Sinister scenery. Sometimes you wonder if you are not the next one they are waiting for.
Then we reached Balladonia. A spaceship collapsed there in 1979 and made the place world famous. They still have a few parts of it but most went back to the US. Jimmy Carter called them to apologize. That story is all detailed in their small museum which also explains how the first camels were brought from North India and when the first Afghans came to manage them.
So at the end of the desert we felt like superheroes. We felt like we achieved something great. We congratulated ourselves and were proud until we saw something orange a bit further on the road. We came closer and immediately felt something was wrong. It was a Japanese guy on a bicycle. How could he be there? No town for many 100km in both directions. We reached him, opened the window and asked him where he came from. He actually left Ceduna (1100km from where we were) 12 days before and crossed the desert on his own. We felt so miserable. This guy had accomplished something totally crazy in comparison with what we did. We all stopped to check a salt lake and he decided to spend the night there. There was totally nothing there and it was still 3 PM. That guy was surely coming from another planet.
Then we finally arrived in Norseman which is the first town after Ceduna. We didn’t stay there but we visited the salt lakes. It is just incredible. Some of them look like tropical beaches and others look like the North Pole.
We carried on to Esperance. It was a strange feeling to be back in civilisation. The town is average but it is close to Cape Le Grand National Park. Actually most places are named after French ships and officers. Two French ships Eperance and Recherche landed there in 1792. So the National Park has got beautiful beaches and three interesting mounts to climb. Then we went to the great ocean drive with amazing lookouts.
And after 3PM we thought that it was time to hit the road again. We didn’t want to drive too far this time after so many days in the car. Ravensthorpe, the next town, was 160 km further but when we arrived there everything was fully booked. We were told to go to the next town which was 120 km further. But when we reached the place same problem again and the manager there told us that there was actually a bushfire in the Fitzgerald NP and all places were occupied by the firefighters. We had to go to Albany which is the biggest city around but it was already 8PM and we were a bit concerned about driving 2h in the dark. The big 4WD can manage a kangaroo but we can’t. It was maybe preferable to sleep in the car but we took the risk. During dusk we already saw a few rabbits and kangaroos and realised why so many get killed. I have never been so focused while driving because we knew it could come from anywhere and at anytime. I slowed down to 100km/h which was still too fast especially when we saw a kangaroo which just got hit by the 4WD which overtook us 5mn earlier. Never drive at night in Australia.
Now we are staying in Denmark which is one the prettiest place we have seen so far. Small chalets surrounded by high trees overlooking an inlet with many birds. A river where you can go kayaking and beautiful beaches which nice stone formations.
So after spending New Year’s Eve in Melbourne we headed to Philip Island to see the koalas, crossed the bay by ferry
and started our journey to the Great Ocean Rd. It was just amazing. The only negative things are the flies. So many and everywhere. They come on your face and if you are h